‘Ruby Harvest’ Quince Jelly
My quince craze started on an autumnal walk, when I stumbled across an entire bag of quinces in a church porch, generously gifted to any passer-by. I reserved a single quince and baked with the others. From that single quince, I grew many quince plants and I am looking forward, one day, to my own quinces growing on the branches.
Ellen Phethean’s poem, ‘Portrait of the Quince as an Older Woman’, captures the trials and beauty of cooking with quince. Hard, tough and full of seeds, the quince requires strength and persistence, but it’s well worth it, producing a “ruby harvest”, as Phethean describes it, which is the inspiration behind the name for this recipe.
Use this jelly in my Quince Bakewell Tart or in a galette des rois; stir it into casseroles for a sweet tang; or simply slather it on toast.
You can check out Ellen Phethean’s wonderful poetry here.
Ingredients
Method
1. Wash the quinces and cut them up into quarters.
My quince craze started on an autumnal walk, when I stumbled across an entire bag of quinces in a church porch, generously gifted to any passer-by. I reserved a single quince and baked with the others. From that single quince, I grew many quince plants and I am looking forward, one day, to my own quinces growing on the branches.
Ellen Phethean’s poem, ‘Portrait of the Quince as an Older Woman’, captures the trials and beauty of cooking with quince. Hard, tough and full of seeds, the quince requires strength and persistence, but it’s well worth it, producing a “ruby harvest”, as Phethean describes it, which is the inspiration behind the name for this recipe.
Use this jelly in my Quince Bakewell Tart or in a galette des rois; stir it into casseroles for a sweet tang; or simply slather it on toast.
You can check out Ellen Phethean’s wonderful poetry here.
Ingredients
- 2kg quinces
- 1 lemon, juice and zest (optional)
- 14g citric acid (if required – see below)
- Water
- Granulated sugar (see quantities below)
Method
1. Wash the quinces and cut them up into quarters.
2. Add them with the lemon juice and zest (if using) to a large pan and add just enough water to cover them. If you are using very ripe quinces and want to ensure a good set, add 14g citric acid at this stage.
3. Simmer until the fruit is tender and broken up (approximately 1 hour). You could use a pressure cooker, which will shorten the cooking time (follow the manufacturer’s instructions but note that you will not need to add much water if you follow this method). Whichever method you’re using, it’s important that the fruit is broken up fully – this will mean the acid and pectin are fully dissolved.
3. Simmer until the fruit is tender and broken up (approximately 1 hour). You could use a pressure cooker, which will shorten the cooking time (follow the manufacturer’s instructions but note that you will not need to add much water if you follow this method). Whichever method you’re using, it’s important that the fruit is broken up fully – this will mean the acid and pectin are fully dissolved.
4. Then, strain the mixture through a clean piece of muslin/a jelly bag. I stretch a large piece of muslin over a large bowl, and secure it in place using an elastic band or string. I ladle the mixture and place it carefully on top of the muslin, letting as much juice pass through as possible before adding another spoonful. It’s really important not to press or force the juice through, otherwise the juice will become cloudy and unappealing. Leave it to drain through for several hours or overnight (but not for any longer than a day). If you’re prepared to pick the remaining flesh from the seeds, you can make membrillo using the discarded fruits.
5. Measure the quantity of juice produced. Don’t add the sugar yet but the amount of juice you have will determine the amount of sugar you need to add. For each 100ml of juice, you’ll need 75g sugar.
5. Measure the quantity of juice produced. Don’t add the sugar yet but the amount of juice you have will determine the amount of sugar you need to add. For each 100ml of juice, you’ll need 75g sugar.
6. Once you’ve worked out how much sugar is needed, return the juice to a pan and heat it until boiling. If the juice seems thin, boil it for a bit longer to reduce it further before adding the sugar.
7. Stir in the sugar, simmer until dissolved and then boil it rapidly, without stirring. The juice and sugar need to be boiled together to ensure that the jelly sets. To determine how long to boil it for, perform the flake test: dip a wooden spoon into the jam, remove and turn it so the jam can drop from the spoon back into the pan. If you’ve boiled it sufficiently, the drops will form ‘flakes’ which drop cleanly and quickly. Alternatively (or in addition), use a food thermometer. It needs to reach a temperature of 220°F. Put the thermometer in hot water before and after testing the jelly, stir the jelly before testing it, and don’t leave the thermometer at the bottom of the pan – instead, suspend it in the jelly mixture while taking the reading.
8. Remove the pan from the heat. Skim off any white scum that has formed, and then pour the mixture immediately into sterilised, dry and warm jars. (To find out how to sterilise jars, see my sloe gin recipe under ‘September’). Fill the jars right to the top and immediately ‘cap’ them with a wax disc and with a screw lid or plastic/fabric cover, tied around the jar. Do not move the jars while they are cooling.
9. Label the jars. Store the jelly in the fridge or in a cool, dark place.