Chocolate and Elderflower Fraisier
The chef James Martin visited my school once, to run a cookery class. At the time, there was a big drive for promoting more food lessons in state schools, and this initiative meant that I got the chance to meet a range of chefs: Antony Worrall Thompson, Brian Turner, Lesley Waters. I remember James Martin making a classic fraisier, and showing us how to make spun sugar for decoration. I was mesmerised. This version, although a significant departure from the classic, is inspired by that school visit, which I still remember all these years later. Instead of a vanilla sponge, mine is chocolate-based, infused with seasonal elderflower. Instead of a creme patissiere filling, I make a strawberry cremeux. Contrasting the chocolate and strawberries, I colour the almond paste a light green and decorate the top with delicate flowers and foliage from wild strawberry plants.
If using a different depth or size of tin to the one listed below, adjust the amount of filling accordingly: just make sure it sits more or less level with the top of the strawberries.
To use up the leftover sponge, make a trifle: crumble the sponge, mix it with a tablespoon of elderflower cordial and any remaining whipped double cream and any remaining strawberries. Serve with ice cream.
Ingredients
For the sponge
For the filling
For the decoration
1. To make the sponge, preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Prepare the tin by lining it fully with baking parchment, using butter around the sides to affix the parchment to the tin. Whisk the sugar and eggs together using an electric hand whisk until they leave a clear trail (this will take at least 5 minutes).
The chef James Martin visited my school once, to run a cookery class. At the time, there was a big drive for promoting more food lessons in state schools, and this initiative meant that I got the chance to meet a range of chefs: Antony Worrall Thompson, Brian Turner, Lesley Waters. I remember James Martin making a classic fraisier, and showing us how to make spun sugar for decoration. I was mesmerised. This version, although a significant departure from the classic, is inspired by that school visit, which I still remember all these years later. Instead of a vanilla sponge, mine is chocolate-based, infused with seasonal elderflower. Instead of a creme patissiere filling, I make a strawberry cremeux. Contrasting the chocolate and strawberries, I colour the almond paste a light green and decorate the top with delicate flowers and foliage from wild strawberry plants.
If using a different depth or size of tin to the one listed below, adjust the amount of filling accordingly: just make sure it sits more or less level with the top of the strawberries.
To use up the leftover sponge, make a trifle: crumble the sponge, mix it with a tablespoon of elderflower cordial and any remaining whipped double cream and any remaining strawberries. Serve with ice cream.
Ingredients
For the sponge
- 125g caster sugar
- 4 eggs
- 100g plain flour, sifted
- 25g cocoa powder, sifted
- 25g butter, melted
For the filling
- 300g fresh strawberries
- 2 tablespoons elderflower cordial
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 egg
- 45g caster sugar
- 60g butter
- 3 leaves of gelatine
- 250ml double cream
- About 13 medium strawberries, halved
For the decoration
- 300g marzipan
- Green food colouring
- 1 tablespoon of strawberry jam
- Small or wild strawberries/leaves/flowers
- Deep rectangular tin, approx. 18 x 23 cm, with removable sides (I use this one: https://www.silverwood-bakeware.com/collections/cake-sandwich-pans/products/12x4-inch-deep-multisize-cake-pan)
- Baking parchment
- Rolling pin
1. To make the sponge, preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Prepare the tin by lining it fully with baking parchment, using butter around the sides to affix the parchment to the tin. Whisk the sugar and eggs together using an electric hand whisk until they leave a clear trail (this will take at least 5 minutes).
2. Melt the butter and leave to one side. Sift the flour and cocoa powder in two separate batches over the egg mixture, then use a large metal spoon to fold it in very gently, cutting through the middle of the mixture and then moving the spoon in a figure of eight motion, being careful not to knock out too much of the air. Check for any remaining 'pockets' of flour.
3. Scrap the 'scum' top off the melted butter and then trail the butter over the mixture, then stir it in gently using a metal spoon.
4. Bake at 180°C fan for 25 minutes until risen. The middle should spring back when you touch it lightly. Tip the sponge onto a clean tea towel, peel back each side of the parchment and then the rest of the parchment. Flip the sponge over onto a cooling tray.
5. As the cake cools, making the filling. Firstly, remove the stalks from the strawberries and, using a hand blender, blend the strawberries into a puree. Add two tablespoons of elderflower puree and mix well.
6. Soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water to soften. Whisk the egg, egg yolk and sugar together until light and fluffy. Heat 100g of the puree in a medium saucepan until warm (not boiling).
7. Spoon half of the warmed puree into the egg mixture and mix well, then add this puree-egg mixture to the rest of the puree in the saucepan. Cook on a low heat for about 3 minutes until light and foamy, stirring constantly. Turn off the heat. Add the butter and mix again. Dry the gelatine on a piece of kitchen roll and then add it to the saucepan - it will melt on contact. Stir in the remaining strawberry puree.
8. Whisk the cream to stiff peaks. When the strawberry mixture has cooled, use a hand whisk to whisk in the cream.
9. Trim each edge of the cooled sponge and then slice it in half horizontally. Adjust the sides of the tin to reduce its size and then line it again with baking parchment. Place one half of the sponge on the bottom of the tin, and spread a thin layer of the strawberry cream over the top, before lining the sides with the halved strawberries, tips pointing upwards and the middle facing outwards, firmly touching the sides of the tin. Fill with the strawberry cream until the strawberries are fully covered. Adjust quantities of the cream if your tin is slightly different in size (add more whipped cream if the strawberries aren't fully covered - there's enough leaf gelatine to ensure it sets even if you add more cream). Then, place the other half of the sponge gently on top. Put in the fridge to firm up for at least 3 hours.
10. Add a small amount of green food colouring to the marzipan and blend. Roll flat to the same dimensions as your tin. Brush the top of the sponge with the strawberry jam and then place the marzipan over the top. Decorate the top with small or wild strawberries, flowers, and/or leaves. Refrigerate until serving. Best enjoyed within 2 days of making.
10. Add a small amount of green food colouring to the marzipan and blend. Roll flat to the same dimensions as your tin. Brush the top of the sponge with the strawberry jam and then place the marzipan over the top. Decorate the top with small or wild strawberries, flowers, and/or leaves. Refrigerate until serving. Best enjoyed within 2 days of making.