meadowsweet floating islands
I had read about meadowsweet before I found it. Edward Thomas writes about it in his poem 'Adlestrop': at a train platform, deserted of people due to the First World War, Thomas describes seeing the 'willows, willow-herb, and grass, / And meadowsweet, and haycocks dry'. His poem is set in June, but I found that the meadowsweet that grows at the riverbank in my village blooms in August, at which point it can be harvested and dried, and then used in recipes. It has a distinctive almond flavour and taste, which partly inspired my use of it in this custard. I was also inspired by its fluffy white cloud-like formations, which made me think of the floating cloud-like meringues in this dessert, which I have enjoyed so many times in France, where it is perhaps more common (and known as îles flottantes).
The result is a foraging spin on this beloved and elegant dessert. Meadowsweet is also known, after all, as queen of the meadow! Which is a more refined name than 'meadwort', as Chaucer refers to it in The Knight's Tale. And, for those with an almond allergy, they can enjoy the taste without the risk. You can also try infusing the dried flowers in vinegar to create meadowsweet vinegar, or try sprinkling it over other cakes. Its aromatic character has often been used in wines, beers, and jams - in fact, the sweet-smelling herb used to be strewn in musty churches and used in bridal garlands (hence why it was also known as 'bridewort'). It can also be made into a pain-relieving tea, a traditional remedy for acidic stomachs - meadowsweet buds contain asprin-like compounds (salicylic acid, from which aspirin was, in fact, synthesised back in 1899!).
Find meadowsweet in damp woodland, meadows or on riverbanks. It flowers between June and September, depending on your region, when the blooms can be collected and dried - simply cut the blooms and store in a brown paper bag, then sprinkle into a piece of muslin, to be gathered up into a teabag.
Make the caramel last, once everything else is ready and the custard chilled. Serve immediately, though leftovers will keep in the fridge for a day or two.
Serves 4
Ingredients
Meringue islands
Custard
Caramel sauce
Method
1. Collect the meadowsweet flower heads and leave them to dry out in a brown paper bag for a few weeks. Then, make the teabag.
The result is a foraging spin on this beloved and elegant dessert. Meadowsweet is also known, after all, as queen of the meadow! Which is a more refined name than 'meadwort', as Chaucer refers to it in The Knight's Tale. And, for those with an almond allergy, they can enjoy the taste without the risk. You can also try infusing the dried flowers in vinegar to create meadowsweet vinegar, or try sprinkling it over other cakes. Its aromatic character has often been used in wines, beers, and jams - in fact, the sweet-smelling herb used to be strewn in musty churches and used in bridal garlands (hence why it was also known as 'bridewort'). It can also be made into a pain-relieving tea, a traditional remedy for acidic stomachs - meadowsweet buds contain asprin-like compounds (salicylic acid, from which aspirin was, in fact, synthesised back in 1899!).
Find meadowsweet in damp woodland, meadows or on riverbanks. It flowers between June and September, depending on your region, when the blooms can be collected and dried - simply cut the blooms and store in a brown paper bag, then sprinkle into a piece of muslin, to be gathered up into a teabag.
Make the caramel last, once everything else is ready and the custard chilled. Serve immediately, though leftovers will keep in the fridge for a day or two.
Serves 4
Ingredients
Meringue islands
- 2 egg whites
- 50g caster sugar
- Drop of vanilla extract
- 200ml whole milk
- 200ml water
Custard
- 300ml whole milk
- 200ml single cream
- 3 egg yolks
- 75g caster sugar
- 3 heaped teaspoons of dried meadowsweet flowers tied securely in a muslin bag
Caramel sauce
- 50g caster sugar
- 1 tbsp water
- Pinch of salt
- Muslin and string to make a teabag
- Hand-held electric whisk
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Large bowl
- Glass serving dishes
Method
1. Collect the meadowsweet flower heads and leave them to dry out in a brown paper bag for a few weeks. Then, make the teabag.
2. To make the meringue islands, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks and then add all the vanilla extract and the sugar, one tablespoon at a time, whisking constantly until stiff and glossy.
3. In a wide pan/medium flying pan, heat the milk and water until it's steaming (not boiling). This will be the poaching liquid. Drop tablespoons of the meringue mixture into the pan (in cloud-like shapes if you'd like) and poach for about 3-4 minutes on each side. Prepare a large plate lined with kitchen towel. Remove the islands from the pan and place on the plate.
4. To make the custard, combine the milk, cream and the muslin teabag in a saucepan and heat until steaming (not boiling). Remove from the heat and leave the teabag in, to infuse for 5 minutes. Then, squeeze the teabag and remove it.
5. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar with an electric hand whisk in a large bowl until smooth and pale, and then pour the milk/cream mixture over the eggs, whisking briefly with the electric hand whisk. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan over a medium heat and cook until slightly thickened (it shouldn't be a thick custard). When it starts bubbling, turn down the heat until the bubbles die down. Sieve the mixture through a metal sieve, over a large bowl, and leave to cool. Once it's cooled, put it in the fridge until cold.
6. Divide the custard between four bowls, and place a meringue island carefully on top.
7. To make the caramel sauce (just before serving), place the sugar, water and salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a gentle heat until it melts and goes caramel-brown. Do not stir! Swirl it gently if needed. 8. Drizzle the caramel over the top of the custard and meringue islands. Decorate, if desired, with dried meadowsweet. |